I gathered so many memories, favorite moments and photos (Oh, sooooo many photos) from a recent visit to Germany. It’s hard to put two weeks of German exploration from Berlin to Dresden, Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Schwangau, Munich, Heidelberg and back to Berlin into words. I’ll try with this portrait of one of my favorite stops along the way: the medieval walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber in the Franconia region of Bavaria.
If you’re looking for the bilderbuch (“storybook” in German) architecture of cobblestone streets and half-timbered homes in an authentic setting, Rothenburg is the place to be. Toss in some medieval torture devices and a historic tour led by an axe-wielding night watchman, and you’ve got yourself a full day and night of discovery.
The Medieval Crime and Justice Museum
The Medieval Crime and Justice Museum is just quirky enough to be right up our alley. You’ll find more than 50,000 exhibits from 1,000 years of German and European crime and legal history spread out over four floors. The building is located in the former St. John’s Commandery (built between 1393 and 1410). In 1718, the building was outfitted in the Baroque style of architecture that it is today.
The tour starts in the cellar (how appropriate) with a fun collection of nail-ridden torture devices and “stretching” implements. As you make your way through the rest of the galleries, you’ll find law books, antique documents, shaming apparatuses, an iron maiden, judicial procedurals, executioner’s tools, art, folklore and other objects from the Medieval ages and the Holy Roman Empire.
Exhibit Topics
- Trials and Torture
- Sentencing and Punishment
- Law Throughout History
- Witches, Executioners and Scoundrels
- Animals in Legal History
- Church, Empire and the Law
- Myth or Reality? Legal Fantasies
Night Watchman Tour
Relive a night in the life of a medieval watchman as you take a walk through old town with a costumed guide. Carrying a hellebarde (that long-handled axe) and a lantern, his job was to ensure the safety of the residents and the swift removal of troublemakers. The town’s grave digger and the executioner were the only two lower than the night watchman on the career totem pole (Makes you feel a little better about your job, huh?).
You’ll walk down the dark alleys and cobblestone squares while learning about the night watchman’s duties, local lore and medieval life in general. This entertaining historical tour lasts about an hour.
Storybook Structures
I could have spent several more days snapping photos of every storefront, colorful windowbox, medieval wall and metal sign in town, but the road calls and, eventually, it’s time to go. Here’s a look at that storybook architecture I mentioned. Can’t you just see Pinocchio skipping along these streets? Yes, Pinocchio is set in Italy, but I get that wooden toy vibe here.
Fun Fact: My maiden name is Eisentrout (yes, it’s German), so finding Hotel Eisenhut was a fun discovery.
Another Fun Fact: Eisenhut means “Iron Helmet/Hat.” Eisentrout means “Iron Tracks.”
Yet Another Fun Fact: Those metal signs hanging above the doors weren’t just for decoration. In medieval times, not many people could read. The signs served as a way of letting people know what kind of business it was.
If You Go
- Where to stay: Built in 1479, the Goldener Hirsch Hotel is a cozy, convenient and accommodating spot. It’s pet-friendly and has a pool table, a sitting room and the Blue Terrace breakfast room, which serves a lovely morning meal. Several restaurants and shops are within walking distance.
- Where to eat: Head to the Goldenes Lamm for an authentic German meal.
- Where to snack: If you’re feeling snackish, don’t miss sampling a Rothenburg schneeballen (snowball) … these fluffy balls of sweetness are made from shortcrust pastry and are a regional specialty. They can be found at bakeries in town.
- What to do: Discover the nighttime scene around town by booking a Night Watchman Tour.
- Where to shop: Don’t forget to take a stroll through the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christkindlmarkt (Christmas shop).
This entire excursion was the trip of a lifetime and a big bucket list item for me. I’ll continue to share more adventures as I’m able to compile the photos and words into a cohesive bericht (“narrative” in German).
